by Treacle
Unless you’ve been on a media diet for the last month or so, you probably know that the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show (VSFS) happened last week. Billed as the “Sexiest Night on Television,” this year was the 10th televised broadcast of VSFS (even though there’s been a version of the show since the mid-90′s) and it’s turned into a bit of a tradition. Between its millions of viewers (and subsequent millions of sales), the VSFS is one of the effective marketing campaigns in the world.
Usually, I do a quick write-up after the show talking about my favorite looks and maybe what I did or didn’t like about the broadcast. But as I was reviewing my notes for this post (Rihanna was great, the lingerie was plain, and the interviews in between segments were forced), I felt like I would be missing some bigger issues if I just spoke about the show and nothing else. Because the truth is, Victoria’s Secret, despite it’s position as the #1 lingerie retailer in America, has a few issues it needs to deal with right now. Issues that make the fashion show seem a bit silly in comparison.
Some of you may be surprised I’m saying this. After all, a few months ago I wrote a post about how Victoria’s Secret actually benefits the lingerie industry (short version: it exposes a lot of women to lingerie who might otherwise never get a chance to try the stuff), and I upset quite a few people who interpreted that post as a blanket acceptance of everything Victoria’s Secret has ever done and ever will do. So it feels appropriate now to spend some time talking about the ways Victoria’s Secret is really messing up.
Victoria’s Secret Has a Race(ist) Problem
Less than 2 months after Victoria’s Secret shocked anyone with a conscience over their blatantly racist ‘geisha’ costume (modeled by the ultra blonde and very-definitely-not-Asian, Candice Swaenpoel), they upped the ante by putting the very Midwest and most-certainly-not-Native-American, Karlie Kloss, in an Indian costume. As the saying goes, once is an accident, twice is a coincidence, but 3 times is pattern. And the third time, if you remember, is last year’s fashion show which crammed all the black models into one ‘tribal’ sequence).
Now, I don’t think the people in charge of Victoria’s Secret are idiots. At the very least, the company has more than enough money to spend on diversity consultants or customer focus groups or even a book or three on racial stereotyping. Yet it appears they do none of those things prior to spending thousands (if not millions) of dollars on making and manufacturing these explicitly racist costumes. So that makes me wonder if they either don’t care (which is bad) or if they’re deliberately trading on racist controversy to bring some attention to the brand (which is worse).
Inevitably, when the R-word (by which I mean racism) comes up, someone responds with, “Well, they probably don’t intend to be racist!” Which may be true. After all, I don’t live with any of their designers. But I think we can at least agree that Victoria’s Secret doesn’t intend to avoid being racist either. And one can only be ‘accidentally’ racist so many times before other people begin to wonder what exactly is going on.
Victoria’s Secret Has a Gender Problem (and It’s Not the One You’re Thinking Of)
The current roster of Victoria’s Secret Angels (i.e. their headliners) includes the following nine models: Adriana Lima, Lily Aldridge, Alessandra Ambrosio, Miranda Kerr, Doutzen Kroes, Behati Prinsloo, Candice Swanepoel, Lindsay Ellingson, and Erin Heatherton. When it comes to the Angels, many people focus on the physical homogeneity of the women and that is a problem.
Unfortunately, it’s not a unique issue to Victoria’s Secret, and that discussion often leads to incredible amount of body snark, body shame, and body hate…three things I have no interest in or tolerance for. Instead, I want to spend some talking about the whole Virgin/Whore complex Victoria’s Secret actively trades in.
I’m not sure if you’ve noticed, but in the past few years, there’s been an increasing emphasis on the models’ (always heterosexual) relationships. The first 5 Angels listed above are married (they also happen to be the most popular Angels), and I’ve often noticed their relationship is invoked by the brand during promotional events. It’s as if to imply, “Yes, these women are famous for being underwear models, but they’re ladies. They’re good girls, so everything’s okay.”
Meanwhile, in the rest of the country, women are having to deal with police officers who say things like “Dressing like a slut makes you rapeable.” That contrast…that juxtaposition is very unsettling to me. I know the company is attempting to capitalize on the “They’re wives and moms just like you” angle, but it’s very distressing when the legitimacy of their most popular models is so heavily linked to their relationship status. Because it reinforces the notion that expressing your sexuality or being a sexual being, is only okay if you’re doing it the right way.
Victoria’s Secret Has an Image Problem
The last year has been full of scandals for Victoria’s Secret. From the use of child labor in Burkina Faso to photoshopping away model’s limbs to ever-decreasing product quality and a reputation for egregious fitting techniques, the bright and shiny image Victoria’s Secret has built up over the last decade is slowly being chipped away.
While they are still the name in lingerie, at least in America, every new scandal reminds the public that Victoria’s Secret isn’t about women’s empowerment or being sexy or even lingerie…they’re just a regular, run-of-the-mill clothing company out to make a buck. And once that “secret” gets all the way out, the brand may never recover.
***Treacle is a 25 year old knickers junkie who started writing because her friends threatened to tape her mouth shut if she didn’t stop talking about her underwear. As a blogger, she interacts constantly with the people this industry needs most—customers. The Addict Expose is all about bringing you, the lingerie store owner, the perspective of the lingerie consumers. She welcomes lingerie lovers of every nation and persuasion to her blog, The Lingerie Addict. ***
Category Archives: Addict Expose
The Addict Expose: Introducing…Les Chandelles Lingerie
by Treacle
It’s not often I’m excited about a new lingerie label months before their first product ever hits stores, but Les Chandelles (French for “The Candles”) is one such brand. I first discovered them viaInstagram months ago, and ever since then, I’ve been hungry for new details about their debut luxury collection.
Though they’ve released 5 lines total – Coquette, Eiffel, Montmartre, Pigalle, and Rivoli- my favorite is the ultra-sexy Eiffel range. The combination of sheer mesh and ribbon-like straps has me craving Les Chandelles in the worst way…and that’s not something every new lingerie brand can say.
You can view all 5 ranges and purchase the new collection via their website here: http://www.leschandelleslingerie.com/
***Treacle is a 25 year old knickers junkie who started writing because her friends threatened to tape her mouth shut if she didn’t stop talking about her underwear. As a blogger, she interacts constantly with the people this industry needs most—customers. The Addict Expose is all about bringing you, the lingerie store owner, the perspective of the lingerie consumers. She welcomes lingerie lovers of every nation and persuasion to her blog, The Lingerie Addict. ***
via McPete Sez Newsletter.
The Addict Expose: Why Start a Lingerie Boutique? – An Interview with Sarah Wizemann of Lille Boutique
by Treacle
A Photo from Lille Boutique’s 5th Anniversary Party
Portland, OR lingerie boutique, Lille Boutique, recently celebrated its 5th year anniversary. I visited Lille almost 3 years ago, shortly after moving to Seattle, and was amazed by their style…which reminded me more of an opulent ladies’ dressing room than a typical lingerie shop. Lille Boutique is also one of the few independent lingerie boutiques that allows for a comprehensive online shopping experience. In this interview, Sarah Wizemann, Lille’s Founder, talks about why she started her boutique, the role of tradeshows in determining which brands she picks up, and her advice to aspiring lingerie entrepreneurs.
For more advice to lingerie businesses, take a look at Ellen Lewis’ interview from last year – “How to Break Into the Lingerie Industry.”
1) Thanks so much for taking the time for an interview with us, Sarah! I know you’re super busy, and I definitely appreciate sharing your expertise with my readers. Every week, I get a ton of questions around starting and running a lingerie boutique. Why do you think so many people are interested in the lingerie industry now, and specifically in starting their own shop?
The lingerie industry has been experiencing a sort of renaissance period these past few years, particularly in America, with more and more young women getting into the business. I think today’s body-conscious fashions, as well as the growing popularity of the ‘innerwear as outerwear’ trend, have contributed significantly, but I also feel that it was a case of innovation arising out of necessity.
So many of the old lingerie houses failed to respond to their customers’ needs by staying on trend and adjusting their prices in light of the economic crisis, so there was a void in the market just waiting to be filled. I am so thrilled to be able to support so many up-and-coming young designers who are manufacturing in a morally and ethically responsible manner, creating fun, fashion-forward lingerie for modern women that is priced appropriately for the amount of work going into each garment. As for ladies interested in opening their own shops, I think that trend can also be traced back to the economic crisis and the desire to be your own boss. I know that was a huge part of my motivation!
2) You probably don’t know this, but I visited your store a few months after moving to Seattle and I thought it was absolutely gorgeous. What made you want to open Lille Boutique? And what’s the story behind the name?
Thank you so much for your kind words! I have always had a love of fine lingerie and an appreciation for beautifully constructed garments, not to mention an obsession with the 1920s, when the flappers liberated themselves from the corset. My mother used to be a seamstress and a costume designer, and I was a ballet and modern dancer, so she made a lot of my leotards and tutus throughout my adolescence. Dance costumes and lingerie have a lot in common in terms of construction, so I think that was the seed that sprouted my lingerie obsession.
When my husband and I moved to Portland from New York City in 2005, I realized that many of the brands I had come to know and love were not available here, so I started doing my research and saw that there was a great opportunity to fill that niche. I feel so fortunate that the ladies of Portland, as well as our online customers, have an appreciation for what we do and have continued to support us so loyally over the past five years! The store is named after the city of Lille, France, which, along with Calais, used to produce fine bobbin lace at the turn of the century. It hearkens back to an appreciation for quality, hand-made, delicate things and an bygone era, not to mention my own Francophile nature!
3) Tell us some of the most challenging things about running your own boutique. And since it’s no good to stay in a negative headspace, what are some of the most rewarding?
It’s funny, but the best and worst aspect of running your own boutique are one and the same: you wear a lot of hats. This keeps things fresh and exciting every day, but it also means that you work non-stop and have a hard time turning off at the end of the day. In any given moment, I may be acting as a buyer, visual merchandiser, trend forecaster, party planner, photo/video shoot production manager (those are all the fun ones!) or I may be juggling scheduling, handling payroll, dealing with customer returns and QC issues, or simply washing dishes after an event! It’s fantastic for people who can’t sit still, like me, but it can also be very anxiety-inducing, as anyone who owns their own business will affirm. You’re always wondering if you remembered to check everything off of your endless To-Do list.
4) A lot of designers, especially independent designers, read The Lingerie Addict. What goes into deciding whether or not you carry a new line? Does lingerie market (CurveNY, for example) factor at all into that decision?
There are so many factors to take into consideration, and I think they really vary quite a bit from store to store. It’s interesting how often a designer will tell me that something is “their best seller” but that clearly is not for the Lille customer. We definitely do not fit into the lingerie store mold! But I would say that the most important determining factors are as follows, in order of importance:
1. Do I love it?
2. Does the quality justify the price point?
3. Is it fulfilling a need?
4. Is the designer manufacturing in a conscientious manner?
5. Can I sell it?
Curve is a fantastic market, and we attend it every season religiously, but I scour the earth for new lines, and it makes no difference to me if they are showing at Curve, in a showroom, in a hotel room, or at their apartment. In fact, I prefer the latter, because it allows you to get inside the designers head and have a more intimate knowledge of their raison d’etre.
5) I have to ask…what’s in your personal lingerie drawer? Any faves you come to again and again?
I’m so glad you asked! I recently acquired an incredible vintage card catalog from the 40s that has about 12 drawers, all of which are very deep and approximately as wide as a bra folded in half. My dear, sweet husband lined them in hardwood that was left over from renovating our house, so each drawer has a nice, smooth surface.
I organize my lingerie by brand, with my favorite everyday basics in front, and the lesser-worn, special-occasion lingerie in the back. My absolute favorites are Stella McCartney, Eres, Princesse Tam Tam, and Huit for everyday underwire bras and boyshorts, Malia Mills for swim, The Lake and Stars and VPL for fashion-forward, peekaboo bra outfits, and Araks or Eberjey cotton for comfort, especially when I travel.
6) What word of advice would you give to aspiring lingerie entrepreneurs?
Put your heart into it, and try not to listen to what everyone else thinks you should do. I’ve seen a lot of young designers launch a beautiful new brand, then completely change stride for their sophomore collection because of buyer feedback (i.e. we need you to make more padded bras!) I think it’s important to take into account what the customer wants, but you have to follow your dream and listen to your own inner voice, otherwise the collection won’t have any integrity. It’s also extremely important to get the fit right, even if that means you have to go through 20 different fittings and change factories as many times as is necessary.
7) Last thing…congrats on recently celebrating your 5 year anniversary! What’s next for you, Lille Boutique, and Lille Trousseau?
Thank you so much! We are so happy to still be here in light of economic crisis. It’s been a labor of love, and a testament to perseverance for me and so many of my friends who also own small boutiques. Hang in there, ladies! We have our sights on California for the next possible Lille location, but I also love Seattle and Vancouver. Only time will tell!***Treacle is a 25 year old knickers junkie who started writing because her friends threatened to tape her mouth shut if she didn’t stop talking about her underwear. As a blogger, she interacts constantly with the people this industry needs most—customers. The Addict Expose is all about bringing you, the lingerie store owner, the perspective of the lingerie consumers. She welcomes lingerie lovers of every nation and persuasion to her blog, The Lingerie Addict. ***
The Addict Expose: Let’s Talk Bras! An Interview with Ali Cudby of Fab Foundations
by Treacle
Today I’m really excited to be interviewing Ali Cudby of Fab Foundations. Ali is the author of Busted!: The FabFoundations Guide To Bras That Fit, Flatter and Feel Fantastic. I got an advance press review copy of the book last year, and I’ve already recommended it privately to several of my readers.
One of the things I like most about Busted! is how approachable and down-to-earth it is. I’m a big fan of talking about lingerie in a way everyone can understand, and I’m an even bigger fan of empowering women to recognize good lingerie and good fit for themselves. In our interview today, Ali talks about why bras are so important, her most poignant bra memory, and how to discover your size if you don’t live near a fitter.
1) Thanks so much for making the time for my readers! I’ve read your book, “Busted!: The Fab Foundations Guide to Bras That Fit, Flatter, and Feel Fantastic” a few times now and it’s in regular rotation in my library. What made you want to write a book about lingerie? Do you come from a retail or design background?
I come from the background of being a frustrated consumer. After a lifetime of ill-fitting bras that were uncomfortable and unflattering, I (accidentally, but happily) stumbled into the world beyond DD bras around 8 years ago. It was a transformational moment for me. Finding bras that fit changed how I felt in my body, every single day – and it was so thrilling that I began learning more about the industry, blogging, and ultimately creating a methodology for fit that became the basis of Busted!
2) One of the things The Lingerie Addict tries to do is emphasize how important lingerie is to a woman’s wardrobe. Just how important do you think bras and bra fitting should be to women?
Women tell me that they don’t care much about their bras because bras “don’t show.” I couldn’t disagree more! Wearing a bra that fits is going to improve how your clothes look on your body. Proper fit will even improve your posture and help reduce sagging later in life. Plus, a properly fitted bra will be more comfortable, which enables you to focus on other things, without distraction. I know I feel much better in my skin whenever I’m wearing a bra that makes the girls stand up and proud. Women who have gotten fitted after years of wearing uncomfortable, ill-fitting bras say the same thing. So I think bras and fit is hugely important to women, whether they’re an AA-cup or an N-cup.
3) So true! Getting personal here for a moment, what’s your most poignant bra memory?
I hated going bra shopping as a teenager. My Mom would take me – and my Mom was (and is) tiny and small busted, whereas I’ve always been curvy. As a teen, I didn’t want to be curvy, and my self-esteem was not-so-hot to begin with. Then we’d get to the lingerie department and the stores only stocked up to a DD, which didn’t begin to fit. I joked that I had a six-pack — the two boobs in the cups, the two spilling over the top and the two sliding beneath the underwire. I tried to make light of the situation, but I wasn’t laughing on the inside. I can remember this one time, trying bra after bra, and nothing worked. Not even the ugly grandma bras that could have doubled as flak jackets. There was just nothing that fit, and I felt like the bigger message was that there was something fundamentally wrong with me.
I tried to stop the tears, but once they started I couldn’t stop them. I was crying in the fitting room, which only made me feel worse about myself and about the entire situation. My Mom and the sales woman were giving me these pitying looks, which was like gas on the fire — I can still remember that awful feeling. Nobody – teen or grown woman – should have to go through that. Of course, the product selection is much better now, and women have options that didn’t exist when I was a teen…but too many women are still made to feel like there’s something wrong with them and their bodies when they shop for bras. Nothing could be further from the truth. Women should demand products that fit, and if they can’t find them locally, learn to shop online. Being empowered to have beautiful bras that fit can be life changing.
4) 100% agree. There are quite a few books on bras and bra fit out there, so I have to ask, what makes Busted! different from the other guides on bras and lingerie?
I think I’ve read all the books out there, and there’s excellent information in all of them. What makes Busted! unique is that it’s the only book that focuses exclusively on bras that fit, with in-depth steps for understanding what fit looks like on a body, different body types, shopping, etc. Some of those components are in other books, but Busted! is the only book I know that is focused on the fit message at this level of depth. I’m also gratified to hear from readers that they like the tone of Busted! — I tried to write it in the same way I would use to explain the information to a friend, and it’s great to know it’s resonating with folks.
5) Speaking of fit, what are the most common bra issues you see? Any quick fixes?
The most common issue I see is that women wear bras that are too large in the band and too small in the cup. Understanding that the band should carry 80-90% of the job of supporting your breasts is the best way to address that problem. If your band is too big then you’ll end up with the straps working too hard to support your breasts. When your straps are doing too much of the work it can be uncomfortable at best and a health issue at worst. If you discover that your band is too big, then adjust — but make sure you are also adjusting your cup size. Band and cup are interrelated, not independent. So as you decrease your band size, you have to increase cup size simultaneously in order to get the same fit. For example, if you were wearing a 34B and realize the band is too big, then when you go to the 32-band, you’ll need to increase to a C-cup to get the same volume in the cup.
The next most common issue stems from women getting caught up in the size on the tag. We have a tendency to see ourselves a particular way — a clothing size, a shoe size…and a bra size. When we learn what fit looks like, it means change. Sometimes that’s not easy for women to accept, especially if the change means a larger cup size — women sometimes freak out when they realize they’re actually a bigger cup size than they ever expected. My advice is always to let go of the numbers and letters – focus on fit. You’ll look better and you’ll feel better!
6) If a woman doesn’t live near a bra fitter, what’s the best way to discover her size?
Too often, women are left to their own devices when shopping, and fitters can be inconsistent – not all of them are well trained. I think the best thing a woman can do for herself is know that there’s a bra out there that will fit properly. Don’t let anyone make you feel like there’s something wrong with your body! There is great product on the market, it just may not be in stores near you. Start with what you’re already wearing and think about how it fits you – or doesn’t. If your bra doesn’t fit, begin adjusting by looking at the band – that’s the most important piece to get right. Once you have a band that fits properly, make sure the cups are creating a smooth line without bulges (a sign your cup is too small) or gaps and wrinkles (a sign they’re too big). Third, the bridge (the bit between the cups) should be sitting up against your sternum and finally, make sure the straps are only doing 10-20% of the job of supporting your bust. Those are the fundamentals, and if your bra isn’t doing that – and you don’t have a fitter nearby – just go to the store with the best size selection near you and play with different band/cup combinations until you feel more comfortable.
7) There’s been a lot of attention on bras, bra fit, and bra sizes in the media lately. What do you think of campaigns like The War on Plus Four and The Bra Band Project?
Anything that sheds more light on the topic of fit is great! I love these campaigns that are positive and affirming of women. War on Plus Four addresses a worn out sizing methodology that hasn’t really worked in a long time. The Bra Band Project is all about empowerment. What’s not to like!?
8) What’s next for you, Ali? Any special projects or sequels to Busted! in the works?
Right now, I’m working on some exciting projects that are aimed at bringing the fit message to women in new ways — I’m almost ready to make the big announcement, but not quite — so I’ll keep you posted. I’ve gotten a couple of requests for follow-up books that I’m looking into, plus I continue to work with manufacturers and retailers on a variety of marketing projects. Things are busy!
Thanks so much for your time, Ali! It’s been a real pleasure talking with you.
***Treacle is a 25 year old knickers junkie who started writing because her friends threatened to tape her mouth shut if she didn’t stop talking about her underwear. As a blogger, she interacts constantly with the people this industry needs most—customers. The Addict Expose is all about bringing you, the lingerie store owner, the perspective of the lingerie consumers. She welcomes lingerie lovers of every nation and persuasion to her blog, The Lingerie Addict. *